Zero to Hero

Unboxings done. You've looked at the pictures in the machine's user manual. You've sewn a few crooked stitches and removed a few rats nests of thread. Congrats, it's now time to make something useful.

☝️ Still shopping sewing machines? See my recommendations for MYOG Essentials.

If today is your first day sewing since middle school, I recommend getting started with a Cinch Sack. If you have a small buckle and webbing, a Roll Top Sack follows very similar construction steps. Hop over to the pattern generator and input dimensions to get a pattern that fits your fabric.

In these first couple projects focus on these core skills:

• Sewing consistent clean stitches without knots or snags
• Accurately sewing to stated seam allowances
• Guiding technical fabrics through the machine for straight seams
• Squaring up edges for a symmetric and nice finish

For a small, no brainer materials kit with everything you need for your first couple stuff sacks, check out the $10 DIY Kit from RBTR. Their instructions and steps are a little different from mine, but I wish this materials kit was around when I got started!

Hint: if using the $10 DIY Kit, a cinch sack measuring 8" x 6.5" x 8" tall will fit the 18" x 30" fabric without cutting.

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Moving up from stuff sacks to your first pack is pretty daunting. Gear making is technical and unique skills need to be learned! Backpacks, for example, involve more materials and piece parts, there's hardware and webbing, and your pack can't fail or you're going home early. Additional pockets, closure methods, and load carrying systems all require consideration and planning.

To build confidence and learn various gear making skills, consider the progression below. I'd recommend picking a few projects from each complexity rating to work your way up to tackling your first backpack.

Project	Complexity	Skills Learned
Zip Pouch	✂️✂️✂️	Basic zipper assembly, topstitching, and forming 3D box
Rounded Stuff Sack	✂️✂️✂️	Sewing circles in ultralight fabrics, cord channel hem
Running Belt	✂️✂️✂️	Basic zipper, webbing and buckle, and precision sewing
Everyday Fanny Pack	✂️✂️✂️	Multiple zippers, sewing tight curves, and symmetric sewing
Everyday Totepack	✂️✂️✂️	Multiple panels, flat felled seams, recessed zipper panel
Bikepacking Feed Bag	✂️✂️✂️	Circular bottom, floating lining, panel assembling, webbing
Bikepacking Frame Bags	✂️✂️✂️	Tight corners and curves, zippers, and foam linings
Fastpack	✂️✂️✂️	Torso sizing, shoulder straps, stretch pockets, seam binding, multiple panels and mixed materials, hardware and webbing
Trail Running Backpack	✂️✂️✂️	Vest sizing, stretch fabrics, curved darts, seam binding, multiple panels of mixed materials, hardware and webbing

What started out as being extremely intimidating, I've begun to wrap my head around apparel and I've learned it's a VERY broad subject. Based on my research, I break garment making down into the following elements. In industry, each of these topic areas are often performed by different people, each with their own core specialties and expertise.

Elements of making apparel

• Apparel design - turning vision and goals into an actionable sketch
• Pattern drafting and draping - methods for converting 3d shapes into flat patterns
• Pattern grading - proportionally expanding a base pattern into multiple sizes
• Fabric layout and cutting - mindful marking, handling, and cutting fabric and materials
• Construction and finish - piecing, seaming, and edge finishing aka "the sewing"
• Tailoring and adjustments - adjusting pattern or garment for custom fit

My goal is to see you make your first wearable garments! With that in mind, my designs emphasize function over form. Our outdoor apparel must perform in all conditions or an adventure can easy turn into emergency. Most of my designs are inspired by ready-to-wear items from Patagonia and Outdoor Research, with my own spin on beginner-friendly construction methods and ideas for improvements.

Much effort goes into establishing and testing accurately-sized patterns to minimize the need for tailoring and major changes for fit. Construction methods for apparel are very similar to gear making so many of the skills are transferable. As my patterns are quite basic in form, they are also great starting blocks for creative designs you may have in mind. For those getting started, my recommendated progression follows.

Project	Complexity	Skills Learned
Alpha Camp Pants	👖👖👖	Stretch knits, yoga style waist and cuffs, overlocking, simple pockets, buttonholes
DIAS (Shorts)	🩳🩳🩳	Inseam pockets, welt pocket, elastic waist and hemming, basic seam finishing, buttonholes
Alpha Raglan Hoodie	👕👕👕	Stretch knits, size selection, overlocking, sewing facings, stretch binding, buttonholes
Fleece Pullover	👕👕👕	Stretch knits, kangaroo pocket, snap placket, stretch binding
UL Windshell / Rainshell	👕👕👕	UL slippery fabrics, seperating zipper, zipper pockets, hemming

You may be asking, "do I need a serger?" Well no, but if you're starting to ask, then its probably a good time buy one! Check out my reasons and recommendations below. 👇

First and foremost, to make awesome gear you need a sewing machine.

What's the best sewing machine for getting started?

For your first few projects, I'd recommend borrowing a machine to learn on and become more informed about what works best for your projects. Machines are commonly available to borrow in maker spaces, tool loans through your local library, or through family and friends. When ready to purchase a new or used machine look for the following characteristics. This is a basic list of desired attributes for a low-cost introductory home machine for a beginner.

• Mechanical drop feed machine with reverse lever
• Atleast 1/4" presser foot height, often called two-stage lifter
• Presser foot presssure adjustment for feeding various weight fabric
• 1-4mm+ minimum stitch length and 5-6mm stitch width
• Utility stitches including zigzag, overlock/overcast, and stretch
• Automatic button hole (with accessory foot) is a great addition
• Walking foot attachment compatible for sewing multiple slippery layers
• Needle compatibility size range should include #11/75-16/100+
• Quality customer support and local service center

While I have limited to no experience with these specific machines, each model meets the desired attributes listed. At this price point, these machines are mostly similar and are well regarded by users.

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• Janome HD1000 or HD3000
• bernette b05
• Singer HD4423

If unfamiliar with Bernette, it's Bernina's sub-brand for affordable class machines. The bernette b05 Academy is a great value with the included bundle, has a full metal chassis, and meets all of the above considerations. Likewise, Janome is a long standing high quality sewing machine manufacturer and I've heard many people prefer the Janome HDx000 over the Singer HD44xx series machines. Both brands can typically be found at local sewing machine dealers so you can test drive the machine in person.
The Singer HD series is often recommended largely due to price point and availability. Sure, it's probably the only sub-$200 machine capable of sewing heavy weight pack fabrics. But don't be fooled by Singer's marketing as an "all metal" and "heavy duty" machine. And beware Singer's non-existent customer service. To answer the age old question between the HD4411 and HD4423, the HD4423 is worth the small price increase with the addition of stretch stitches for knit fabrics, an automatic buttonhole capability, and an included needle threader.

Can you tell me if machine x, y, or z is right for me?

Sorry, no. There are too many variables to consider. Your local sewing shop would be happy to help!

Serger yay or nay?

I use my serger on almost every project. If you're making apparel or regularly sewing knits, a serger should be your second machine and is not a replacement for a lockstitch machine. I recommend a basic two needle, four thread serger with differential feed which allows you to sew strong construction and finishing overlock seams at the same time. A three thread overlock really should be used for raw edge finishing only. Differential feed allows you to adjust the speed of feed dogs to prevent wavy seams, a common headache when sewing knits with a sewing machine. The chainstitch produced by the serger retains stretch in the knit fabric and once you experience the ease of serging knits, you'll regret waiting so long to buy one. Ready to tackle knit fabric? Checkout the Skyline Sun Hoodie.

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• Brother 1034d
• Juki MO654DE
• Bernette b44

fabrics Lucky for you, I have a whole page full of gear fabric recommendations. Specific apparel fabric recomendations are provided within each pattern.

threads

Sewing Gear with Home Machines

Fabric type and weight is the main factor for selecting the right needle and thread. Polyster thread has high strength with a little stretch making it durable and abrasion resistent. For 95% of my projects Gutermann Mara100 and Mara70 are my preferred threads.

Fabric Weight (osy)	Fabric Denier	Needle	Thread
1 oz/sqyd	30D	#8-11 Universal or Microtex	Tex 30 Gutermann Sew-All Gutermann Mara100
1-3 oz/sqyd	30D-100D	#10-12 Universal or Microtex	Tex 30-40 Gutermann Mara100 Gutermann Mara70 Gutermann Tera80
3-6 oz/sqyd	200D-400D	#12-14 Microtex or Jeans	Tex 40-50 Gutermann Mara70 A&E Perma Core 45
6+ oz/sqyd	500D+	#16 Universal or Jeans	Tex 40-60 Gutermann Tera60 Gutermann Mara50 Bonded Nylon #46

Sewing Apparel with Home Machines

For apparel, its important to select appropriate fabric for the pattern. Stretchy knits will be much faster to sew and have cleaner seams if constructed serger using ball needles and Maxi-Lock Tex 30 thread. For outdoor apparel calling for woven fabric, there are similarities in needles and thread types as used in gear making. For stretchy knits, a ball needle will help to prevent skipped stitches.

Project Type	Fabric Type	Needle	Thread
UL Windshells, Sil rainshell Synthetic shells	Ultralight Woven	#8-11 Universal or Microtex	Tex 30 Gutermann Sew-All Gutermann Mara100
Shorts and pants, twill, taslan no or low-stretch (<10% spandex)	Light-Medium Weight Woven or Stretch Woven	#11-14 Jeans or Universal	Tex 40-50 Gutermann Mara70 A&E Perma Core 45
Stretch tshirts, base layers, stretch gaiters, underwear	Lightweight Knit	#10-12 Ball or Stretch	Tex 30-40 Gutermann Mara100 Gutermann Mara70 Gutermann Tera80
Midlayers, hoodies, fleece	Medium weight Knit	#12-14 Ball or Stretch	Tex 30-40 Gutermann Mara100 Gutermann Mara70 Gutermann Tera80

For serging or coverstitching, I use Maxi-Lock (tex 30) thread with size 80-90 ball needles. Textured aka Wooly thread, typically nylon but also polyester, will feel softer against skin and is more elastic then a spun polyster thread. Maxi-Lock Stretch is a common example and is optimal for leggings, base layers, and other high-stretch activewear.

Nearly all gear includes webbing for attachments and tensioners. Originating in the tactical gear world, daisy chains are popular for attaching hardware. Shoulder straps and compression straps use tensioner hardware to adjust length and volume. There are a multiple types of webbing commonly available. For long lasting high quality gear, a medium weight nylon flat webbing that is Berry compliant or similar to MIL-W-17337 is most popular.

• Nylon flat webbing is strong thin and light, has a tight weave, and works well in plastic hardware
• Nylon Seatbelt webbing has smooth feel and soft touch but often slips through plastic hardware
• Tubular webbing is a tube of webbing pressed flat, used primarily for climbing gear
• Polyprolene webbing very plasticy, loosely woven, and rough textured but has tons of colors
• Grosgrain is ribbon most often used for seam binding, very thin and not for carrying weight
• Bias Binding is for seam binding especially on curves, not for carrying weight
• Fold Over Elastic is an excellent edge finish on stretch pockets, cuffs, and hood openings

For packs and gear, the most common style of webbbing used is flat nylon webbing like these MIL-Spec Nylon Webbing or Med Wt Nylon Webbing.

fabrics

Zip over to our zipper guide for info and video tutorials.

These are my most used tools for designing and making gear. I'm recommending items I personally use.

• Amazon Affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission from your purchase.
• Unsponsored, unaffiliated links to Wawak.com because they carry high-quality products and have exceptional customer service. Tell them I sent you!

Everyday Sewing Tools

Cutting Mat	Self healing mat for rotary blade. Buy the largest you have space for!
Rotary Cutter	45mm is preferred for most economical replacements blades.
Cutting Ruler	Cut safely with this clear, non-slip ruler that has a blade guide.
Seam Ripper	Your new best friend 🤍 I prefer this larger sized handle for gear making.
Thread Snips	Kept machine-side for precise and fast thread trimming.
Fabric Pencils	Water soluble marking pencils in three colors. These are my favorite hands down. Don't forget a pencil sharpener.
Wonder Clips	Binder clips work but these sit flat on table and are much faster to use.
Measuring Tape	Especially useful for body measurements when making apparel.
Seam Gauge	Easy way to measure consistent fold-down hems.
Basting Tape	Double sided, water soluble tape for perfect seams and hems, 1/4" ftw.
Glue Stick	Useful in joining paper patterns or basting seams
Bias Binding Maker	Specialty tool for folding self-made bias tape from fabric strips.
Pattern Weights	Surely you can be more creative than spending $10 on these.
KAM Snap Kit	Specialty tool to set colored plastic snaps into gear and apparel.

Designing and Flat Patterning Gear and Apparel

Patterning Paper	Dotted purpose-made patterning paper, 36" or 48" wide and 15# weight. Somewhat translucent and more durable than tracing paper.
See-Through Tailors Ruler	See-through flexible ruler with 1/8" precision graduations. Perfect for drawing seam allowances.
Mini Rotary Cutter	28mm paper cutter dedicated to not dull your fabric cutter. Small blades cut tight curves much easier.
Pattern Notcher	Like a hole punch but specially made notcher for paper patterns.
L-square Ruler	Fast and accurate squaring of guide lines.
Vary Form 24" Curve	24" curved ruler for sweeping smooth curves and shaped lines.
Vary Form French Curve	12" french curve for tighter curves and shapes.
Patternmaking for Menswear	My favorite flat patterning textbook found thus far.
Pencil & Soft Erasers	Precise mechanical pencil that easily erases and won't tear paper

Cricut

With a digital workflow, its possible to go from design to cut panels without paper. Atleast for small projects, that is. I get alot of questions about the Cricut Maker that I often show in videos and Instagram Stories. I address many of your commonly asked questions on a dedicated page.